12.2 miles, 35,150 steps, 8 cats 

Before I think about today (even though my knees won’t me forget), gotta catch up on last night. After I got checked in to my cute apartment in Redondela, I threw some laundry into the washer and while sitting in the courtyard waiting for it, I met some neighbors. Kim and Daniela are neighbors in Toronto, although Daniela is originally from Austria. They were both my age-ish and had walked the French Camino (40 days!) last year. Eric is an 81-year-old gentleman from England and so, so funny and sweet. He had walked to the local store for some wine, cheese and “crisps.” And we had a little happy hour. Then he insisted on treating us to dinner at the restaurant down the road. He was quite the character. His wife passed away last year after a rapid decline into Alzheimer’s, and they were supposed to walk this Camino together (they had done the French way 3 years ago). 

He told us stories about being an engineer in the army for 25 years, and being stationed in Berlin in the 60s, when his job was to drive around and map the streets to see which ones were wide enough to fit a tank—just in case. 

After the military he had a roofing business—thatched roofs only. Big business in the Cotswolds and other villages.  

We ended the night with traditional Galician Licor de Hierbes (herb liquor) which was quite tasty and very much like the Cuarenta Y Tres we used to get at El Bandido (which I thought was Mexican but apparently is also from Spain). 

Anyway, it was a fun Camino evening. Today, however, I was a little worried about Eric as so much of the route was up and down VERY steep trails. I hope he was ok and took it slow!! 

My knees were very upset after today. I cannot believe how steep some of the trails were. It was almost like scaling a ladder. I did get some ice at the hotel and Advil worked wonders, so I’m sure tomorrow will be A-OK. 

The trails are so crowded now. Big groups of friends, couples, solo people like me. But there’s literally no way to get lost anymore. There’s always someone in sight. 

Only 4 more walking days left. Apparently there’s a tropical storm heading this way which will likely mean rain on the last day. Boo. Tomorrow’s destination is Caldas de Reis. Going to try and research the route tonight for elevation…or maybe not, I mean, it doesn’t matter and I think I’d rather be surprised.